Monday, August 31, 2009

Traversing through Orikum (*new post)


I went to Orikum today to explore its tourism potential with Kacey. We found out about a centuries old church and wanted to explore how to get there so that we can promote Orikum's (and, Orikum being in the state of Vlore, Vlore's) cultural and historical heritage and showcase its non-beach assets.

Though we didn't know exactly where it was, were roughly aware of the direction. We set off due west and asked on the way.

As the town faded we saw more shepherds and dogs. Donkeys were grazing and the path was peaceful. The dirt road was quiet as people farmed, stayed inside and generally kept to themselves. However, they were quite helpful when asked directions, clearly excited that someone, tourists non the less, were interested in venturing out.

We crossed a stream with rocks laid out for passing. The shrub grew taller and more scratchy. We spotted the church in the distance, standing alone, its simplistic, ceremonious white forms emerging from the green bush. Lacking a defined path from the stream to the church, I realized that my navy shorts were no match for the tall brush and decided to stop at the brush. While I stopped I decided to fix the path, getting my exercise the very old fashioned way: by moving stones.

Kacey was determined to forge on, and she did. Her strength and determination did not let the brush get her as she pushed all the way to the church. The insides, though slightly neglected were beautiful.


She deposited a bouquet she had brought in remembrance and enjoyed the quiet solitude.

Walking back we passed a few fisherman and discussed the church's promise. We brainstormed different restoration grants and possible sustainable projects that could highlight this unknown yet powerful gem. So immersed we were that I didn't notice the pack of 3 very hungry attack dogs on the path. Not stray dogs, these dogs were meant to attack. Fear seeping forth from me, both visibly and inside. Even Kacey, a dog lover to the end, was fearful. The dogs came closer and I literally feared for my life. The story of the women being eaten to death in San Fran by her horribly bigoted neighbors came to mind. As the approached within 3 feet I think I started shaking. Precisely at that moment their owner came, screamed at them, and hit them ferociously with a stick. He apologized to us, and we walked on.

Not having much personal dog experience (my mother is deathly allergic so it wasn't an option growing up) I asked Kacey if we had in fact been in true danger. She asked me if I could handle the truth, which I could. Yes, she said, yes we had been.

We made a note that in addition to building a path and marking the church we'd have to discuss the attack dogs as other persons might not be as lucky.

Friday, August 28, 2009

Day in The Life

Woke up, went to the post office on the way to work, the post office lady well acquainted with me know just shook her head no upon seeing me and headed to the Bashkia.

After observing Eliona for a while to see what needed to be done, chatted with Niko- the head of the Regional Environmental Agency and headed down the the Urban Planning office to work.

Rushed home from work to work out to a video for 40 minutes, showed and headed out for coffee, or in my case sparkling water, with a friend from the information center and then pizza with some girls I know from the Bashkia. That, good readers of my blog, is a day in the life. Not, I fear, much different from my life in New York (toiling in an office, working out, and then enjoying dinner and great conversation with girlfriends). Good? Bad? Dunno. Similar and comforting yes.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Korca

Wow. The Great Korca Beer Fest. Or should I say the Festa e Birres. It was fabulous but not without its scary parts. I left for Korca on Friday with Stephan- an Austrian social worker who was surfing my couch. 6 very sweaty, sticky, smelly hours later we arrived to a cool Korca which was shaking off the rain. As we wondered down to the festival site, we wondered to ourselves where were all the people. We arrived to find a small damp area with the benches resting peacefully on the wet tables, the few occupied booths a testimony to the fact that something will or did happen. Shaken we wondered what happened to the promise of tens of thousands of people of the website? This sad site could not be those people's host.

Thankfully, to our decided relief, we were wrong- it could, would and did host the people better that either one of us could imagine. The Festa e Birres was fantastic.
At about 8, after a coffee, securing lodging in the most unhygienic place I've ever physically entered, and a fortuitous bumping into of the other volunteers for pizza dinner, we headed down to the Festa e Birres. The music was flowing, the seats were occupied, and beer was tasty and people were dancing. This continued for the next 4 hours and only got better. Wandering the fest, which seemed quite large when filled with people, sounds and food, I came across the hokey pokey. Immensely impressed at the children's entertainment and the fest, I was also emotional. I couldn't remember the last time I played the hokey pokey or turned myself around, but I loved it. The site of the Albanian children doing the hokey pokey is seared into me forever.

As the music changed and the time wore on more people danced. Children danced. I danced. Slowly it became time to leave. Our rathole, where I saw a used contraceptive under the bed and black footprint on my sheet, was going to close at 12. So we left. I slept in my sleeping bag despite the heat and fell asleep to the quietness of our side street.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Summertime and the Beach (*new post)



I'm posting these pictures with the explicit intention of enticing you to come visit.
The beaches here are magnificent (though pebbly- it is Europe) and the water is amazing. Also, its cheap compared to Europe or Croatia. The food is amazing, and lastly, of course, you'd get to say "I went to Albania and had the best time".

As you know Vlore is on the coast. It is the city that splits the Adriatic and Ionian seas. The drive from Vlore to south to the southern most city of Sarande is spectacular and can easily put Route 1 to shame. Mountains on the left, blue glimmering water on the right. One passes through multiple vegetative zones and even a national park with evergreens. Natural spring water from the mountains comes oozing out of every rock.

There are cafes at which you can overlook the beaches from the side of the mountains