Confession

This is ridiculous. I know. I'm aware. I'm also very cognizant of the fact that Elissa has been riding me about my taste in music since 1990 or perhaps 1988. Either way its been a solid 2 decades. That said, here is goes. I've been listening to Danny's Song. Yes- the highly cheesy Kenny Loggins and Messina song over and over and over again. But that's not the worst part. No. The worst part is that it makes me happy. For real. It makes me smile and want to skip but since I'll slip and fall I settle for happy jumping. Try it. Listen to Danny's Song several times and try not to smile. I dare you.

Home

So, I went home for a week and it was fabulous. There is nothing quite as oddly voyeuristic and sublime as being a tourist in your home. Particularly when your home in New York City.

I went home and drank Mojitos, saw art, ate vegan cupcakes and gluten free pizza, saw some more art and talked to everyone. I mean everyone. And people don't do that in NY. They just don't. Keep your head down (or straight). Focus ahead. Don't stare. Even it its a celebrity (for example, Nicolas Cage waiting casually outside the door to the theather you're about to enter to see a play). No, this isn't L.A. We're better than that- oh I mean cooler than that. We play it chill... But I did. I stared, I talked, I gaped. I even smiled- profusely and incessantly. Bordering on creepy. I talked to the people next, the guy next to me, the girl, the little old ladies on the first floor at the theater. I didn't care. I was so happy to be home. They were mostly amused- who was this girl- this girl who looks like a New Yorker, talks like a New Yorker but isn't acting like one. Is she invaded? Their reactions were priceless.

I saw Promises Promises. On that sunny day as Charlotte and I met on the steps of the new TKTS booth whose design I critiqued years ago in architecture school and waited to hear that her niece was finally born we took a break from the phones, technology and amaranthine ringing and beeping to escape into the revival of Promises Promises. Seeing Sean Hayes and Kristin Chenoweth was like seeing sparks fly. As we sat in the balcony I spotted many empty seats smack in front dead center. Like I have done ever since I was a little girl, during intermission I went down to the stage. As a child this routine was undertaken by a parent or grandmother eager to point out the orchestra to me and my siblings. Now it was more for nostalgia, routine and familiarity- the orchestra being good but quite small. I chatted with the ladies who lunch. I asked if the seats were taken. They looked at the seats, looked at me and said now they are with a wink.

I experienced the bamboo exhibit. Rachel and I climbed to the top, begged strangers to take photos for us and basked in the sunshine. There is nothing like New York in late September. I pointed out my old apartment. She watched the shadows. It was a bit sloppy for my taste, some of the joints felt haphazard and random not in a good way but the roof of the Met can't ever be duplicated. The city is just beneath you with its huge green gem smiling up at you. Rachel made me a tiny painting I took back with me.

I lunched with Christy in the Union Square park enjoying my whole foods sprouted take out in the organic decomposing container. We discussed the impending wedding and all that excitement. My last vivid memory of Christy being of us when we were children in boarding school jumping on our beds in our tiny room that was supposed to be a single. Now she's getting married.

I slept at Kiva's, leaving with a bag she had designed. A purple gem with a gold chain detail and more pockets than I could dream of with a slick magnetic clasp. A Kiva original she told me. I use it every day here in Albania to remind me of home (and good design). I missed her show but luckily fashion week happens twice a year. I left her with a less elegant bag of wholesome Trader Joe goodies relishing every moment I had wandering around those new isles finding her snacks for Morocco.

I saw the house. The new house, the symbol of moving on, moving out and building a family. The baby stuff. The heating and cooling - thank you Ian for the tour- and more baby stuff. I look at the picture I have of us at 11 and think that pretty soon Elissa's child will be the same age as we were in that decades old Cejwin photo. I brunched with the pregnant Cejwin ladies the next day (girls in the blue and white shirts to the left of my hot side pony).

I also brunched with the ladies on the beach. My mom actually made her semi- annual trip to Long Island and we all enjoyed the amazing fall sea.

I met Jenny on the roof for cocktails and dinner. Remembering that the last time I saw her was at her new house with her new dog and now there are two houses and babies... and.... I raided her showroom and was given a blanket she designed that I love so much I brought it back with me to Albania to remind me of home. It made the winter so much more bearable.

I ran with friends in Central Park, ate great bagels, drank bitter beer, Popeye pizza, accidentally crashed someone's first date (awkward mistake), drank some more bitter beer, saw old friends, new friends, and finally dined at Craft.

And I went to the wedding- the most fabulous wedding in an artist space in Boston where my cousin showed her true love for her partner and we were all able to share. Took the train up with my mom to Boston. I read the NYTimes on the train. I Saw my family, enjoyed my family, all of my family. Missed playing tennis with my sister and the gym. Saw the new office, new house, and Boston via the duck tour with Aunt Selma. And no, mom, I didn't have time for a haircut.

Locked In

It seems I only write when something bad happens, so I'm going to try to change that. But for now, I will report that I once again was locked in my apartment- but here's the good news: Peace Corps was great about helping me, getting the locksmith here and freeing me. The locksmith came and pushed the door open, enabling me to complete my very important task of taking out the garbage. So, while I have a semi functional lock all is resolved for now.

It Finally Happened

I've heard of it happening to other volunteers. I've heard the horror stories, but its never happened to me. Or, I should say in the last 8 months it hasn't happened to me- until today. The electricity went out at the gym. Not a big deal right? Think- treadmill + running + electricity cut. Exactly - Ejection. Thought so. So, luckily I was being lazy and having a prolonged warm up so I was not forcefully hurled from the treadmill. When the generator came back on I hesitated a bit before I started running but since the guys who run my gym are some of the most responsible, respectful and effective business men and citizens in Vlore I really didn't worry to much. And in fact, 28 minutes later, before switching off the generator, one of the brother came up to me and quite nicely asked if I would stop running so they could switch the power back on. Sweet. Who says NYC is more exciting? I'll challenge those propulsion threat-free gym goers any day.

Rain

So today it rained. No- don't get sad. This is good news. Very good news. So good, in fact that when I bumped into my friend on the street the other day one of the first things he said was "Molly, I hear its going to rain". When it is so hot you sweat from sitting rain sounds wonderful. Just wonderful. And, now, having it I can tell you it was wonderful. The heat broke, the air had the great smell and the mud even felt like an old friend who had come back for a visit.

Cosmo is always right

For real. Cheer, elate, excite, exhilarate: I've been in an excellent mood lately. Some of it has to do with the rain but the root of the rest of it has remained a mystery. I've had some very productive engaging work meetings which have certainly been uplifting as I feel that the sluggish pace of August is finally wearing off and I can almost feel the renewed energy in the air. I'm ready to go back to real work and so it seems is everyone else. But its more than that, it is but what is "it"?

Well, after devouring Cosmo on the stationary bike I've come to the conclusion that it is due to 3 well researched prove mood lifters.

#1) I'm planning a trip. I'm going home for a week! Which according to Comso June 2010 is an instant booster. "Those planing a trip are happier than those not going away, but after the trip, there's no difference between the happiness levels of the two groups. -Dr. Linda says "As with many things in life, the anticipation is the best bit. So make sure you keep planning new things to do." Well, Dr. Linda and anyone else who is reading this, we know that's certainly not a problem for ms. I get ants in my pants if don't travel. But scientific research to back up my itch? Terrific. Love you Cosmo

#2) Work out- I think we all knew that already but here it goes "Keep Active. Exercise boots feel-good chemicals in the brain, so even going for a walk can help to lift your spirits." Considering I ran 5k today and have been diligently going to the gym in what is now a semi-successful effort to erase the last year of Peace Corps damage I think I can say its true. Working out really does release to those famous endorphins. In fact, endorphins can also block pain, induce feelings of euphoria and decrease anxiety. Why don't I do this every day?

And lastly
#3) Veggies, Veggies Veggies. In an effort to truly enjoy the bounty of Albania I've been trying to buy fresh produce every day. I'm painfully aware that the amount of fruits and veggies I eat would be about 4x as much in America and am trying to take advantage of eating locally and in season. Each evening, as it gets cool, I go to the same woman and we chat. She is one of the very few people who not only does not insist I take a plastic bag but offers to put all my veggies in one bag. For all of you who've visited me and anyone in Albania reading this, you know that is wonderful. She suggests it and I smile. I love visiting her every day. Cosmo says "Eat Healthily. Research has shown that even your diet can affect your mood. Sugary food and certain carbohydrates can make your metabolism sluggish, making you feel low while fresh fruit and leafy veg, can have the opposite effect."

So, in short, between the business meeting, trip, gym and wonderful produce I have been on a fabulous all natural high and am almost ready for NYC

Day 3 Still no Toilet

So I waited all day for the plumber. I had seen him last night when I went to throw out my garbage and he told me he'd come at 8:15. No one came until 5. When they came, my landlord realized he wanted to much to lay the tile, so my toilet still sit, precariously perched on an open hole. My landlord worked out a bathroom schedule with my neighbors, one day here one day there and we'll see how it goes. I hope she finds a tiler before she goes back to Italy! I do have faith and am lucky as this incident, as with the other plumbing incidents has brought me closer to my neighbors and fostered a sense of community. I am trying not to be bothered by the fact that it is centered around my toilet.
Below is a video of some of the creative plumbing solutions and my large, new orange pipe. You will also be treated to the creative electrical solutions which may or may not exist in your country.

Plumbing Problems Fixed?

Today- ok yesterday- my bathroom was torn to shreds. It has been decided by the forces that the only logical solution to my plumbing problems is to rip a huge hole in the wall, put the pipe from the toilet OUTSIDE the building, down the side and into the ground and covered it with chunks of building blocks. So, I spend Monday with the very nice plumbers as they drilled, and drilled and drilled. They then dug a large hole and put the bright orange pipe in and then left the toilet very precariously perched on the tile not hooked up to the tank saying they'd come back today. Unfortunately, due to a communication problem (i.e. no one calling me) I waited around all day today and no one came. At about 3 I finally was able to reach the plumber, who had left his phone at home, who said that some will come tomorrow to hook the toilet up, and put in some flooring. Creativity gets to flourish when there are no building/zoning laws.

No water

I have no water. No one can tell me why. I am the only one. I paid my water bills but oh well. I'm not very upset, as I'd just like to solve the mystery. Is it an accident? On purpose? Will I ever have water again? Be relegated to the only waterless apartment in my communist block building? All I want is an operable toilet. In fact, I'd take a turkish toilet (squat toilet to all you not in Albania) if I didn't spray water out the back or go under my shower.

Thank god I had 3 months to perfect bucket bathing in Shales

Stamping and Bills Take Two

Determined not to let my failure to bring my little book prevent me from fulfilling my duties as a citizen to pay my electric and water bills, I attempted to pay once again. This time, however, I was armed. I brought all of my previous bills for the water and electricity and not one but two little books to be stamped. Loaded with bills and books I proudly stepped up into the Post Office, up to the counter and attempted to pay. After much grumbling on her part due to a bit of confusion about the precise amount owed, some manual addition, I was able to pay. The calculator on the counter being the only electronic devise in the office save for a very large brand new flat screen plasma tv advertising the Albanian postal service.


I then attempted the impossible: I tried to also pay my water bill. I was sent to the regional office. No go. The fourth woman I asked there did, however, know where I could pay it. She directed me down the market to a window. Again, armed with my little water book and bill I stepped up and tried to pay. No go. This window, which is steps from the post office where I proudly pay my electric bills is not the office for your neighborhood. For that you must go to the Mosque and ask around. Actually, she said, the water office is near where you pay the electricity. Hmm.. I thought but I pay my electricity here.

Off to the Mosque I went. I asked multiple civic minded women where to pay the water but was unsuccessful. Finally, a man in a tourist office was able to tell me where to pay my electricity. Well, that is a start I thought. So I headed off to the electricity office. I stepped inside and was directed down the road to the next electricity office. Getting warmer I thought. Outside the next electricity payment office, I saw a women with a little book and bill in her hand. Bingo I thought. This woman pays her bill and knows where to go. I asked, and sure enough she knew exactly where I needed to go to pay the water- the office behind the second electricity office.

I paid the water, but was unable to find out why I don't have water now. I might not push my luck.

Complaints

I've been in Albania for almost a year and a half; In Vlore for just over a 1 year. Justifiably I have been getting some complaints by my limited readership as to the lazy (ok, non existent) pace of this blog. So, I am going to try to play catch as best as I can. The dates may be off but the stories and events truly happened.

Stamping

Woke up way to early for my taste, the sun's intense heat and light felt even through the comfort of my bed, and tried to pay my bills. I was about 50% successful which for Albania is an A+. I managed to pay the rent and internet but couldn't pay the water or electricity because I didn't have my little book. I went up to the counter with the bill and the money and tried to pay, but the ladies at the post office (yes post office, since mail doesn't really exist here the post office is used to pay electric bills) get really bent out of shape when you don't have your little book with a light bulb that says elektric on the front. You see, if you don't have your little book there is nothing for them to stamp. Stamping being a most important and exciting activity, usually done multiple times for one transaction.The book, mind you, is only for me and my records. They keep the bill (i.e. the document I did have with me) for their records. I even offered- at the whopping price of $.50- to purchase a new book, but was refused. So, despite having the
money and the bill I was unable to pay because there was no little book to stamp. I didn't even bother with the water.

I've never seen

a man using a pillowcase to carry a tv before. I was traveling through the south, sitting on the bus, one of the few committed soles determined to take the bus the entire 4 hours drive despite its wretchedly slow pace and habit of stopping randomly on the side of the road per drivers discretion. The alternative, of course, being a direct minivan which at an additional cost of 300 Leke (appox $3.00) didn't seem worth the hour and half shorter journey. (Hindsight is 20/20 isn't it?). As we pulled out at a roundabout, I assumed someone was getting off until low and behold a man carrying fabric stretched around a box got on. He proceeded to carefully walk down the slowly moving bus. When he passed me, I scrutinize the fabric and saw that it was not a cardboard box but television. Hence, today, I saw a man carrying a television in a pillowcase on the bus.

Parks, Parks, Parks

Today I was visited at the Aarhus center by the head of urban planning at the municipality. He informed me that not only did the Mayor support my initiative to focus on greening but is putting me and Dori- a colleague- in charge of it.
What does this mean? This means, if I understood him correctly, that the mayor has approved 200,000 Euros for the rehabilitation of the parks in Vlore. For me, it means an opportunity to lead by example- come up with great designs, engage the public in useful and meaningful dialogue about what they want and show why parks are worth saving.

Permet

In all my trips throughout Albania- one sticks out the most in my mind. It was a trip to the south to a town called Lin on the way to Pogradec. It was the summer and it was so hot. My friend was visiting and we were approached my two boys. They asked if we wanted to see the museum. I knew thee was no museum- there couldn't be- but as my friend looked skeptically at me I said sure let's go. I'll finish the story later but I wanted to give a start for the pics. Feel free to comment and add your own story.

Beach, Beach, Beach

What can I say? I am blessed to live in the city that separates the Ionic from Adriatic seas. I believe the picture is worth more than my blubbering nonsense on the topic. I mean, who honestly wants to read about the beach? Why are you still reading?

Traversing through Orikum (*new post)

I went to Orikum today to explore its tourism potential with Kacey. We found out about a centuries old church and wanted to explore how to get there so that we can promote Orikum's (and, Orikum being in the state of Vlore, Vlore's) cultural and historical heritage and showcase its non-beach assets.

Though we didn't know exactly where it was, were roughly aware of the direction. We set off due west and asked on the way.

As the town faded we saw more shepherds and dogs. Donkeys were grazing and the path was peaceful. The dirt road was quiet as people farmed, stayed inside and generally kept to themselves. However, they were quite helpful when asked directions, clearly excited that someone, tourists non the less, were interested in venturing out.

We crossed a stream with rocks laid out for passing. The shrub grew taller and more scratchy. We spotted the church in the distance, standing alone, its simplistic, ceremonious white forms emerging from the green bush. Lacking a defined path from the stream to the church, I realized that my navy shorts were no match for the tall brush and decided to stop at the brush. While I stopped I decided to fix the path, getting my exercise the very old fashioned way: by moving stones.

Kacey was determined to forge on, and she did. Her strength and determination did not let the brush get her as she pushed all the way to the church. The insides, though slightly neglected were beautiful.


She deposited a bouquet she had brought in remembrance and enjoyed the quiet solitude.

Walking back we passed a few fisherman and discussed the church's promise. We brainstormed different restoration grants and possible sustainable projects that could highlight this unknown yet powerful gem. So immersed we were that I didn't notice the pack of 3 very hungry attack dogs on the path. Not stray dogs, these dogs were meant to attack. Fear seeping forth from me, both visibly and inside. Even Kacey, a dog lover to the end, was fearful. The dogs came closer and I literally feared for my life. The story of the women being eaten to death in San Fran by her horribly bigoted neighbors came to mind. As the approached within 3 feet I think I started shaking. Precisely at that moment their owner came, screamed at them, and hit them ferociously with a stick. He apologized to us, and we walked on.

Not having much personal dog experience (my mother is deathly allergic so it wasn't an option growing up) I asked Kacey if we had in fact been in true danger. She asked me if I could handle the truth, which I could. Yes, she said, yes we had been.

We made a note that in addition to building a path and marking the church we'd have to discuss the attack dogs as other persons might not be as lucky.

Day in The Life

Woke up, went to the post office on the way to work, the post office lady well acquainted with me know just shook her head no upon seeing me and headed to the Bashkia.

After observing Eliona for a while to see what needed to be done, chatted with Niko- the head of the Regional Environmental Agency and headed down the the Urban Planning office to work.

Rushed home from work to work out to a video for 40 minutes, showed and headed out for coffee, or in my case sparkling water, with a friend from the information center and then pizza with some girls I know from the Bashkia. That, good readers of my blog, is a day in the life. Not, I fear, much different from my life in New York (toiling in an office, working out, and then enjoying dinner and great conversation with girlfriends). Good? Bad? Dunno. Similar and comforting yes.

Korca

Wow. The Great Korca Beer Fest. Or should I say the Festa e Birres. It was fabulous but not without its scary parts. I left for Korca on Friday with Stephan- an Austrian social worker who was surfing my couch. 6 very sweaty, sticky, smelly hours later we arrived to a cool Korca which was shaking off the rain. As we wondered down to the festival site, we wondered to ourselves where were all the people. We arrived to find a small damp area with the benches resting peacefully on the wet tables, the few occupied booths a testimony to the fact that something will or did happen. Shaken we wondered what happened to the promise of tens of thousands of people of the website? This sad site could not be those people's host.

Thankfully, to our decided relief, we were wrong- it could, would and did host the people better that either one of us could imagine. The Festa e Birres was fantastic.
At about 8, after a coffee, securing lodging in the most unhygienic place I've ever physically entered, and a fortuitous bumping into of the other volunteers for pizza dinner, we headed down to the Festa e Birres. The music was flowing, the seats were occupied, and beer was tasty and people were dancing. This continued for the next 4 hours and only got better. Wandering the fest, which seemed quite large when filled with people, sounds and food, I came across the hokey pokey. Immensely impressed at the children's entertainment and the fest, I was also emotional. I couldn't remember the last time I played the hokey pokey or turned myself around, but I loved it. The site of the Albanian children doing the hokey pokey is seared into me forever.

As the music changed and the time wore on more people danced. Children danced. I danced. Slowly it became time to leave. Our rathole, where I saw a used contraceptive under the bed and black footprint on my sheet, was going to close at 12. So we left. I slept in my sleeping bag despite the heat and fell asleep to the quietness of our side street.

Summertime and the Beach (*new post)

I'm posting these pictures with the explicit intention of enticing you to come visit.
The beaches here are magnificent (though pebbly- it is Europe) and the water is amazing. Also, its cheap compared to Europe or Croatia. The food is amazing, and lastly, of course, you'd get to say "I went to Albania and had the best time".

As you know Vlore is on the coast. It is the city that splits the Adriatic and Ionian seas. The drive from Vlore to south to the southern most city of Sarande is spectacular and can easily put Route 1 to shame. Mountains on the left, blue glimmering water on the right. One passes through multiple vegetative zones and even a national park with evergreens. Natural spring water from the mountains comes oozing out of every rock.

There are cafes at which you can overlook the beaches from the side of the mountains